4wheelnoffroad.com

[Hydra747]

Here's the deal:

(non-anti-lock breaks)

I was having lots of play in the pedal (really soft and travel is like to the very end). So I took the sporty in to a local garage and they said it was prolly the master cylinder. So I got that replaced. The situation was no better. They did a bleed. A little better I think.

I was not satisfied. And I took it to another place and they suspected air in the lines sooooo they commenced to bleed them again and again. The situation was not corrected still. They suggested new hoses and of course to bleed them. We did and still no improvement. The same party suspects calipers now. When I rode passenger and he let go of the steering wheel / and hit the breaks the vehicle immediately starting jutting a hard left.

...So what gives?????

(besides the fact that I know absolutely nothing about breaks)!

*I do most of the other work on my rig myself aside from breaks of course*

The cylinders were changed on the rear and pads/rotors etc..........btw.

Two questions (prolly dumb but oh well):

1) When the guy was draining fluid out of the front new hose I was inside stepping on the pedal (after pupming) and the pedal felt solid and normal until he tightened /closed the nut off.....Then I felt the pedal drop. He said that this was normal. Is this normal? *it was during a bleed*

2) The engine was off the whole time. I suspect that it should be..or no?

3) After the freakin new calipers are put in (when I get them) ...
If problem exists.....then what????

4) the hubs I got may have been original abs (my 2wd to 4x4 conversion)....not relative right?


Thanks for your time and answers..........

Man, I gotta learn my basic break stuff!!!!!!!


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2001 2wd KIA SPORT converted to 4x4 with lot's of COOL stuff!!!!



Koreans Invade America

[69442]

I have replaced brakes with diff equipment that responded a little diff than prior.

If you have mushy brakes or it pulls while braking there def is a prob.

Might have to go to a 3rd mech for diag or even the stealership
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LIFT OR BUST! 2001 SPORTAGE EX 4WD with 278,210 miles & counting .....

[Rockfreek]

Start by checking to see if your front wheel bearings are tight. If there is any movement this could cause issues.

Are you loosing fluid, like mysteriously disappearing with no evidence? If so it could be leaking inside the power booster.

If the rear shoes are too far from the drum it will take an exsesive amount of fluid for everything to work properly.

Your rear auto adjusters might be seized up & not allowing them to self adjust when you back up. There are adjusting slots in the backing plate often are plugged with a rubber plug. With a flat slot screwdriver you can manually adjust them while spinning the wheel by hand till you hear them start to rub. If you look in the slot you will see a star like wheel with little teeth on it, that is the adjuster & it should turn easy. If it does not it needs to be taken apart cleaned & anti sieze put on the threads B4 reinstalling them. If they turn easy & can be adjusted, after turning till they rub back them off slightly. Get in & back up & stop about 10 - 15 times & see if the pedal is better. This can be done on jack stands or in a parking lot.

Hope this helps & fixes.

BTW, Why post this in non 4X4 Tech?
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Why go around, when you can go Over?
======Body Damage is Kool=======

[Rockfreek]

[69442]

What I can't do myself i rely on a very dependable small mech shop that has a Kia tech they stole from the stealership
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()_)()_)---()_)

LIFT OR BUST! 2001 SPORTAGE EX 4WD with 278,210 miles & counting .....

[Hydra747]

I posted in the wrong place ...cause I still be a Newbie......

I am slowly learning the forum.....

Thanks for all the technical info....No fluid loss at all. I would bet it could be bearings due to a small rub sound on the left side when hubs are locked (regardless of 4x4 engagement or not). You see, when we were installing the hubs during my conversion...I did not have an inner seal so I wrapped electrical tape to make it fit from a new wrongly sent seal (cause it was to small)...Its purpose appeared to be just that of a dust cover of some sort/not unlike an inner grease seal????

I do have the proper seal now ($17) after the fact but am not going to take everything apart again just for that..----Unless I have to.

The booster (black or rusted out folgers coffee can deal) kinda scares me to mess with...lots of parts in there i think??

About the rear self adjusting deal...they took it apart and manually adjusted it alledgedly and now I hear loud spring squeek. The guy said that the self adjusting part really don't work. I certainly don't believe him or his vs. you guys.

My OCD is killing me with the posting in the wrong area ...(you guys can maybe please move it)?....Sorry again for my error.

I will get calipers and see what happens............



Thanks guys
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__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2001 2wd KIA SPORT converted to 4x4 with lot's of COOL stuff!!!!



Koreans Invade America

[xlr8n]

The guy could be right regarding the self adjuster not working properly . I've found that about 90% of the smaller drum brakes rarely adjust by themselves. It seems the larger sized drum brakes self adjust much better but still require manual intervention from time to time. All-in-all, drum brakes usually need a little caucasian persuasion.

Since there are no leaks the problem sounds like it is in the rear, to me. Ensure the are adjusted properly.

Here's how I adjust drum brakes with the tranny in neutral, which is what I think you are running in the rear. With the wheel off and the drum on, push the drum into the axle while rotating it 360 degrees. You should hear the brake shoes rub the drum at least 3/4 through the rotation when adjusted properly. If you don't hear this much rub then pull the drum off and rotate the adjuster about 3/4 of a turn and try it again. Continue this until you hear the desired duration of rub.

Do this to both sides, then drive it and see if it is any better.
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JustEmptyEveryPocket

[Hydra747]

Thanks for the INFO. I printed it out (cause I won't remember it)....to use later. Bought the re-furbished calipers and will give it a whirl this weekend!


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__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2001 2wd KIA SPORT converted to 4x4 with lot's of COOL stuff!!!!



Koreans Invade America

[Hydra747]

Update:

Thanks again for all of the help ya'll. After replacing the calipers,pads and rear adjusting it was much better. I also replaced the inner/outer bearings and we aslo discovered that the inner bearings never had a "raise" around it.....so I took care of that also. The bearings were Not tight like Rob said. That explained the vibration while driving above 45 mph even after new alignment and new tires (balanced prior). It also explained the pulling to the left issue as well as having bad calipers. I failed to clean the grease off the rotor though ....and almost hit a parked car while giving the rig a test now I can say simpleton!

I followed both of ya'lls instructions on adjusting the rears (but had them cut prior to aid in this).

While it don't stop like the wife's Heep commander...it sure is better.

Finding an axle with disk breaks (and popper gears) would be cool for same length.

There is a small (i mean small) amount of play on left wheel due to worn spindle.....but I think that I can live with that for a while.
_________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2001 2wd KIA SPORT converted to 4x4 with lot's of COOL stuff!!!!



Koreans Invade America

[Rockfreek]

Glad to help out, its hard to get anywhere when ya can't stop.
_________________
Why go around, when you can go Over?
======Body Damage is Kool=======

[Hydra747]

Thanks again GuyS!

I can stop NOW!
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__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2001 2wd KIA SPORT converted to 4x4 with lot's of COOL stuff!!!!



Koreans Invade America